What Makes a Hoodie Heavyweight?
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Heavyweight is the most abused word in streetwear. No standards body defines it, so any brand can print it on any label. This is where the line actually falls, and what changes on either side of it.
The working threshold
In practice, most brands that publish a weight figure at all treat roughly 350 GSM as the entry point to heavyweight, and roughly 450 GSM as the entry point to ultra-heavyweight. Below 300 GSM a hoodie is midweight regardless of what the tag says.
The reason the threshold sits near 350 is structural rather than arbitrary. Below it, the fabric stops supporting the shoulder seam. A drop shoulder collapses into a slouch, the hood folds flat against the back, and the hem curls. Above it, the garment holds the line it was cut to.
Weight is necessary, not sufficient
Three things decide how a hoodie wears, and GSM is only one.
Fibre. Pure cotton at 400 GSM feels denser and drier in the hand than a cotton-polyester blend at the same weight. It also holds more water and takes longer to dry.
Construction. Fleece, French terry, and brushed-back knits behave differently at identical weights. A looped French terry breathes more than a brushed fleece.
Finishing. Washing changes the hand. An enzyme wash softens the surface; an acid wash strips and redeposits colour; a mineral wash pulls tone back unevenly. A washed 400 GSM piece and an unwashed 400 GSM piece are not the same garment.
More on how these three interact is on the Materials page.
Five hoodies, five weights
Our own hoodie range covers 350 to 530 GSM, which is a useful spread for showing what weight does. All figures below are stated on the product pages.
| Hoodie | GSM | Composition | Fit |
|---|---|---|---|
| Heavyweight Cotton Hoodie | 530 | 100% cotton | Oversized, drop shoulder |
| Acid Wash Oversize Hoodie | 420 | 100% cotton | Oversized |
| Mineral Wash Crop Hoodie | 400 | 100% cotton | Loose, drop shoulder, cropped |
| Vintage Wash Boxy Fleece Hoodie | 390 | 53% polyester, 42% cotton, 5% other fibre | Oversized, boxy, drop shoulder, cropped |
| Frayed Enzyme Wash Fleece Hoodie | 350 | 57% polyester, 43% cotton | Oversized, drop shoulder, cropped |
530 GSM, pure cotton
The Heavyweight Cotton Hoodie is the densest piece we make. At 530 GSM in 100% cotton it stands away from the body at the shoulder and keeps its silhouette without any help from the wearer. It is a winter garment. It will not layer under a slim jacket, and it is slow to dry. Cut oversized with a drop shoulder, in five colourways, 2XS to XL.
420 GSM, acid washed
The Acid Wash Oversize Hoodie is pure cotton at 420 GSM, garment-dyed and acid washed so no two pieces come out identical. Rib cuffs, rear logo. Still firmly a cold-weather piece, but with more give than the 530. Sizes run to 3XL.
400 GSM, cropped
The Mineral Wash Crop Hoodie is 400 GSM pure cotton with a mineral wash, cut short at the hem and loose through the body with a drop shoulder. Cropping removes fabric, so it wears lighter than the number suggests while keeping the structure that weight provides. Designed to sit over high-waist bottoms.
390 GSM, blended fleece
The Vintage Wash Boxy Fleece Hoodie is 390 GSM, or 11.5 oz/yd², in a cotton-blend fleece at 53% polyester, 42% cotton, 5% other fibre. The polyester content means it dries faster than a pure cotton piece of similar weight. Boxy and oversized with a cropped hem, full hood and kangaroo pocket, ribbed cuffs and hem. Nine washed colourways, and the wash settles unevenly on each one.
350 GSM, enzyme washed
The Frayed Enzyme Wash Fleece Hoodie sits at the entry to heavyweight. At 350 GSM in a cotton-blend fleece, enzyme washed for a broken-in hand and finished with raw frayed edges. This is the most seasonally flexible hoodie in the range. It holds a drop shoulder without becoming a cold-weather-only garment.
Which weight suits which use
None of these is the correct answer for everyone, and we would not claim one is.
- Layering under outerwear. 350 to 390 GSM. Above 400 the bulk works against you.
- Worn as the outer layer in cold weather. 420 GSM and above.
- Three-season wear. 350 GSM, particularly in a blend that dries quickly.
- Structure and silhouette above all. 500 GSM and up, accepting the drying time.
- Travel. Lower weight. A 530 GSM hoodie takes a lot of bag.
How to check a claim
If a hoodie is described as heavyweight with no number attached, the word is doing no work. Ask for three things: the GSM, the fibre percentages, and the knit construction. A brand that has the data will publish it.
Our pieces at 400 GSM and above are described as heavyweight, and the 500 GSM and heavier ones as ultra-heavyweight. Each product page states the figure. If you want the underlying explanation of the measurement itself, start with What GSM Means in Clothing. For the specific step between 400 and 500, see 400 GSM vs 500 GSM Hoodies.
Details of the washes and finishing referenced here are on Craftsmanship.